Neighborhood Review: Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
TRIP ADVISOR/JETSETTER | FEBRUARY 2020
If you’re ready to get out of the hustle and bustle of Manhattan, just a couple of metro stops into Brooklyn lies the charming residential district of Cobble Hill. Part of the BoCoCa trifecta (Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens) the boundaries of the streets that define this neighborhood seem to change depending on whom you talk to, but generally, locals define it as the 40-block residential district bound by the two commercial streets of Atlantic Avenue and Court Streets. Development of this neighborhood first sky-rocketed in the 1830s when ferry service was established at the foot of Atlantic Avenue. Over the years, young couples and families continued to buy here, lured by the diverse architectural styles, proximity to downtown Wall Street, and quiet tree-lined streets. Designated an official historic district by 1969, the quaint character of Cobble Hill, with its 19th-century brownstones, is protected by the city’s preservation laws. The low-lying buildings give the neighborhood an intimate, authentic feel, and with its many independent businesses, fish mongers, and butchers, you almost feel like you’re in an old-world European city. As local resident Rebecca Johnson put it: “I have to pinch myself sometimes at my good luck in stumbling on to this neighborhood. The fact that I can see Wall Street's skyscrapers from my roof but also have a peaceful garden astounds me.” A stroll or bike ride through Cobble Hill is a must and you can book-end your day with a visit to one of the neighborhood’s many cafes, restaurants, and shops.
Long Island Bar:
Beloved among the cocktail-connoisseur crowd is Long Island Bar on Atlantic Avenue. Locals love it for its laid-back vibe, soft lighting, and art-deco décor. At its heart, the Long Island Bar is still a classier-version of a neighborhood burger joint. Back in the 50s, dock workers used to walk the couple of blocks up from The Hudson River to have a beer after a day on the water. Today, visitors can take a bike ride along the ever-evolving Brooklyn Bridge Park, which runs from Dumbo to the end Atlantic Avenue, and then hit The Long Island Bar for a refresher and some of chef and co-owner Toby Cecchini chewy-creamy batter-fried cheese curds. For drinks, owner Joel Tompkins recommends the Boulevardier—a whiskey-based, stirred classic, with sweet Vermouth and Campari. Perfect for a cozy winter cocktail. I tried the Long Island Gimlet, a shaken, citreous, gin-based drink made with juice steeped in fresh lime peels. You will find style and grace at this local watering hole but not in a pretentious, get-me-out-of-here kind of way. With its well-executed classics and creative touches, Long Island Bar is quintessential Brooklyn.
Hibino
If you’re in the mood for some quality sushi, plan on Hibino. And plan on a wait too. Even on a week night, you can expect a forty-minute wait. Local Brooklyn families know the score, book their tables, and go run an errand or two. Visitors can use the time to stroll the beautiful neighborhood brownstones or pop into the cozy pub Henry Public next door for a cocktail. Once you’re in, the wait is worth it. The menu boasts six sake selections by the-glass and even more by the bottle. And the sushi is fresh and reasonably priced for NY. (An average of $ 7 per roll, not including “special rolls”) Kyoto-style Obanzi, or small plates, are changed on a daily basis (three different obanzi per plate at $ 6) so you can sample a variety of traditional dishes from stewed meatballs to ginger soy dashi to roasted baby potatoes and brussel sprouts, with a sesame red miso sauce. For a main dish, manager Hinata Sato recommends trying the Salmon Miso Zuke, a fatty, fresh salmon, topped with a citrus-sweet miso sauce and little crisp vegetables. The Agedashi Tofu (made with organic soy milk and natural sea salt) is another go-to favorite, along with the Tuna Tataki and Beef Kakuni. Hibino, meaning “everyday” in Japanese, is just that—a modest, personable establishment serving Brooklyn parents, hipsters, and foodies alike. Weeknights after 9 pm are going to be the most low-key time and Hibino is best for parties of six or less.
Court Street Pastry shop
This holiday season, Court Street Pastry Shop’s famous cannoli have been flying off the shelves. It’s the busiest time of year at the old-school Italian bakery, where the Cerrile family has been baking and selling pastries since 1948. Nuts, figs, Vanilla-filled pies, cannoli, sfogliatella. You name it, they’ve got it. Salvatore Cerrile opened the no-frills pastry shop back in the 50s after moving to Cobble Hill from Sicily. It’s been a neighborhood staple ever since. “I’ve been coming here since I was three years old. We still pre-order for Christmas,” says Andrew Lubrano, who lives around the corner on Degraw Street. Other customers recommended dipping the shop’s Regina Twists or Vanilla Biscuits in a cup of coffee. I tried the rainbow cake, a three-layered pastry of pinks, yellows and greens, interlaced with apricot and pineapple jelly. It was tangy, zesty, and light. But the Cerille brothers’ Sicilian cannoli are the duo’s best seller. The hand-made doe is left overnight to soften before it’s deep-fried the next morning and then filled with a rich ricotta-cream, kissed with chocolate chips, and topped with a little green coconut.Yes, you might have to hit the gym if you eat too many of these, but you can’t leave Cobble Hill without trying one.
Cobble Hill Park
If you’re ready to give your wallet a break, try grabbing a sandwich at the Italian trattoria, LILLO, on Henry street and taking a stroll over to Cobble Hill Park. Not only will you relish the fresh Italian ingredients of Lillo’s panini sandwiches, but you can do so in an idyllic, neighborhood park with a unique history. Cobble Hill Park holds symbolic value to old-school residents who successfully lobbied the City Planning Commission, the Parks Department, and the Mayor’s Office to boot, to create this little neighborhood oasis. Now, kids play in the Park’s sandbox while their stylish-urban moms catch up over a coffee on a nearby bench. Don’t have kids? Don’t worry. You can still admire the beauty of the classic, 19th-century brownstones that surround the square. And, if you get your timing right, you could also enjoy some of the performances in the summer “Music in the Park” series. (Check the Cobble Hill Association’s Facebook website for updates on upcoming events in Cobble Hill Park: https://www.facebook.com/pg/cobblehillassociation/events/?ref=page_internal)
Watty and Meg
If you’re going solo, Watty and Meg, on the corner of Court and Kane streets, is an excellent choice. The library books and brick walls give it a homey, cozy feel, inviting conversation at the bar with a neighborhood local. On Monday nights, get a juicy burger and glass of Chote du Rhone for $ 15. The deal attracts regulars and bartender Johnny TK knows what they want as soon as they walk through the door. “Medium-rare with gruyere!” he orders, before the patron has even sat down. Watty and Meg serves new American fare, with quality, organic ingredients, many of which are sourced from the upstate “Pineland Farms.” You can’t go wrong with their mac-and-cheese staple. The béchamel sauce is made in-house, and the combo of parmesan, gruyere, and cheddar gives this childhood favorite to a surprisingly nuanced taste. Manager Sarah Lawrence also recommends the roasted salmon, served with small, sweet squashes and a fiery north-African Harissa sauce. A go-to brunch favorite is the classic Huevos Rancheros, served with pico de gallo, pork sausage, and black beans. Pair that with a mimosa, and a spot at Watty and Meg’s sidewalk café on a warm spring afternoon, and go home happy. (Reservations recommended).
Melissa Joy Manning
Do you like grandma’s old engagement ring, but think it looks dated or over-the-top? Bring it to Melissa Manning’s jewelry shop on Court street. In addition to her custom-made, original designs, Manning can also re-work old stones and family heirlooms. Manning opened the shop 22 years ago and prides herself on the store’s ethos of sustainability and ethically-sourced materials. Most of the metals she uses are recycled and sourced from a green-certified refinery.
Visitors here will find unique, handmade pieces that employ traditional metalsmithing techniques. Manning’s pearl-hug earrings offer a unique, modern take on the classic pearl and are one of her best-selling items. You can also pick up a pair of sparkling, Herkimer stones, strung delicately along gold-chain earrings. The artist works with all kinds of stones from Montana sapphires to emeralds to amethysts and shoppers can find pieces ranging from $15 to $ 15,000. You can also find a cool pair of classic hoops here. Check out Manning’s website for special “shop and sip” events, where you can enjoy a glass of champagne while appreciating her artistry. https://melissajoymanning.com/pages/event
Diane T
Get something you love at Diane T’s high-end boutique clothing shop. The prices are high ($150 for a tank top, $595 for a Fair Isle sweater) but if you’re looking for something unique or different that will add to your wardrobe, this is the place to do it….. Sick of your run-of-the-mill jeans and black pants? Get a pair of Zebra-striped skinnies. Always liked your winter coat but never really loved it? Get a cozy, Yves Solomon bomber in merino wool. My favorites were the Italian, hand-made Golden Goose sneaks with a “secret” wedge inside them that gives you a little boost. These sneakers are fun, sporty- and original, and Diane T’s has the very coolest designs. You’ll find between 15-20 designers from Nili Lotan to Vanessa Bruno to Maria Cornejo and a wide variety of wares. And if a $ 600 Nili Lotan Adene sweater is not in your budget, try the sales rack displayed at the back of the store!
Henry Public
This old-timey, Brooklyn saloon is the perfect place to cozy-up on an autumn afternoon or a snowy, NY-day. The patterned wallpaper, wooden banquettes, and low-lit rooms echo the speakeasy era and invite a warm, personable atmosphere that’s a welcome contrast to the go-go-go of bustling Manhattan. The menu consists of old-fashioned tavern food. Patrons rave about the Turkey Leg sandwich, made with milk-braised meat, crispy fried onions, and a zesty gravy. For something a little more off the beat and path, try the $ 13 marrow bones on toast dish, mixed with marinated shallots. Either will pair well with many of Henry Public’s classic cocktails, like the “Brooklyn Ferry,” a TK made with rhye whiskey, antica vermouth, maraschino liqueur, and a touch of absinthe. Another neighborhood favorite is the “Promenade,” a tk tk tk made with rum, green chartreuse, lime, mint, and bitters. As yellowing portraits of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Frederick Douglass stare down at you from frayed walls, you will feel transported to a far-away era, when poets, playwrights, and other Brooklyn literati, would gather here to collaborate, drink, and muse about their next great work. To really top-off the experience, check out Henry Public’s old-time jazz and blues band “Milkman and Sons” between 4-7 pm on Sundays.